Eugenia Bruni

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5 March 2013 - Linda Fornara Bertona

Eugenia Bruni – Creative Director of Pasquale Bruni describes her new masterpieces. Jewellery where precious metals are mixed together to create works of art combining the classic and contemporary. Unique creations inspired by nature and by light.

The moon, the stars and flowers are the inspirations behind the jewellery produced by maison Pasquale Bruni and once again we find the inspiration of nature in the new collection designed by Eugenia Bruni, daughter of the founder and creative director of the famous Italian group which now has more than 500 sales outlets in the world. Eugenia Bruni has had the luck to spend her life amongst jewellery since her childhood, she perfected her style studying graphics in America and always manages to transmit something of her romanticism and passion into her work.

Om Mani Padme Hum is the Tibetan mantra of the Mandala collection. What does it mean exactly?

According to Oriental philosophy it means gemstone in the lotus flower. It refers to a woman, a goddess who is able to reach the light of love. A woman for whom there are no restrictions because there is no limit to light. The Mandala collection ranges from blue Topaz to fumé and milkyquartz. The cuff bangles are inspired by the forms of nature, strong and enchanting, they protect, they fascinate and bring out beauty and the benefits of the stones. This is jewellery worn like an item of clothing, providing a desire security and intimity. The version of Mandala with pinky violet hues is characterised by the use of rhodolite, a gemstone which would be fixed to the shields of warriors because it was a symbol of protection and a good omen for victory.

Eugenia Bruni wearing Mandala-def

Do you have an iconic favourite?

The flowering meadow choker which evokes the 1950s. It is a collier of white gold, 18 carat yellow gold and diamonds with small five petaled flowers sewn together with golden thread using the artistic techniques of the master craftsmen of Italian art and design, giving rise to an enchanting lace which allows you to glimpse the skin.

Eugenia Bruni wearing Prato Fiorito and Liberty

Pasquale Bruni jewellery is sold all over the world. Many new clients are from Russia. What are they looking for?

The Atelier collection, which was launched two years ago and was a pet project of my father’s, is extremely popular abroad. Valuable rings, characterised by great attention to detail in the design and limited addition jewellery which uses extraordinary gemstones are also popular. Russians understand the advantages of art “Made in Italy”. Russian women know how to be daring. They appreciate to wearing important jewellery and they love Italian style which represents the “Dolce Vita” of the 1960s.

Current fashion is interested in hybrid jewellery, works of art using the most varied materials. Which of your lines are orientated to reflect new habits in society?

The Le Monde Collection includes charms, bracelets, necklaces and earrings in 18 carat yellow gold and diamonds mixed with 925 silver. The collection is a fusion of the classical and contemporary. Communion of precious metals where gold, child of the sun, represents eternity and the silver is a symbol of the Moon representing femininity. It’s a positive thing to play with nature.

What is the source of your inspiration?

The birth of a new piece of jewellery is the fruit of a constant metamorphosis, and inspiration comes from the world around us, from feelings. With the rings in the Sissi line, named after Elizabeth of Bavaria, the Austrian Empress, I wanted to journey into foreign lands and deep down into the feminine psyche . Sissi represents the strength of women in the world, and their ability to struggle, their ability to communicate and to be mothers, wives, and queens at the same time. The Tour Eiffel is a homage to the city of love. A wonderful piece of jewellery that is the result of a detailed study of balance. When it is evening, you take off your ring and gently lay it on your dressing table if you have a house in Paris and….

What is the magic word?

Love, the most beautiful light in every one of us, the supreme gift, the answer to life.

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