The Basilica of Santo Stefano

Piazza Santo Stefano

Bologna - 9 June 2013 - Karina Mamalygo

In the medieval world it was common to try to replicate aspects of the city of Jerusalem at the time of the life of Christ for pilgrims who did not have the means of reaching the holy land. In Italy one example can be found in the architectonic complex of Santo Stefano, also called “the seven churches”, situated in the heart of Bologna.
In the medieval world it was common to try to replicate aspects of the city of Jerusalem at the time of the life of Christ for pilgrims who did not have the means of reaching the holy land. In Italy one example can be found in the architectonic complex of Santo Stefano, also called “the seven churches”, situated in the heart of Bologna.

Basilica di Santo Stefano
Basilica di Santo Stefano

Over the centuries the complex has gradually expanded and in its present form we find a simple and powerful proto-Christian and Romanesque structure.
As you enter the complex from the square you will find yourself in the church dedicated to the crucifixion of Christ “la chiesa del crocefisso”. This church dates from the eighth century when the Lombards held power in Bologna. But already at the time of Saint Petronius the Archbishop and patron saint of Bologna who lived in the fifth century there was a holy place dedicated to the cross. At the top of a large staircase you can see the alter with a large cross created by Master Simone dei Crocefissi in the second half of the 14th century. The height of this is almost certainly an imitation of Calvary.

Crocifisso su tavola di Simone dei Crocifissi
The Crucifixion by Simone dei Crocifissi

 

 

Under this “Golgotha” there is a crypt supported by columns. According to legend one of the columns was made to reflect the supposed height of Christ and from the base to the capital it is 170 cm high.

In the past various stone reliquaries were placed around its base including parts of those of the Saints Vitale and Agricola, the first Christian martyrs in Bologna.
Some time ago a cycle of frescoes dedicated to the life of these two saints was discovered on the wall near the apse. There is also a 15th century small fresco of the Madonna della Neve (the Madonna of snow).

 

Madonna of the Snow (Madonna della Neve)
Madonna of the Snow (Madonna della Neve)

 

Every morning and evening mass is celebrated in the crypt by monks from the Benedictine-Olivetan order. Like many other Christian churches Santo Stefano complex was built on the site a Roman temple: the first century temple of Isis in this case.

Nowadays you will find the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Externally this church has an octagonal form but internally it is a dodecahedron. Legend says that St Petronius used a font that was in the temple of Isis to carry out baptisms. When the source of water dried up the font was no longer used but after the return of knights from the Crusades a replica of the Kouvouklion from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem was constructed in its place. 

 

Basilica Santo Stefano, Chiostro con il Battistero in fondo
The Basilica of Santo Stefano: the сloister and the Baptistery

In the 19th century a staircase and a Cross were added to this marble Kouvouklion situated in the centre of the Church and today represents Golgotha. In Jerusalem the church of the Holy Sepulchre and Golgotha were not near to one another but in the Basilica of Santa Stefano the holy places have been synthesised into one unique monument. Later the body of saint Petronius was placed in a niche at the base when his relics were discovered in the 13th century. However recently the reliquary was moved to the Basilica of St Petronius in Piazza Maggiore where the Saints head was already kept.

The second level of this church is formed by a gallery with a balustrade. This floor was reserved for women just like in older synagogues. In a later period it was reserved for the monks in order to protect them from contamination from the secular world. The gallery is supported by columns of marble and brick. One of black marble symbolises the column where Christ was flagellated.
The walls of the church were rich in 12th century frescoes by Berlinghero di Lucca, depicting biblical events, however after a rather unfortunate attempt at restoration they were detached and placed in the church’s Museum.

Passing through a small door we enter another church, the church of San Vitale and Agricola which has the typical 3 naves of an early Christian church, with a higher central nave and an apse.
There are many legends regarding this church. In the early years of Christianity some early tombs were found. On one of them the name Symon could be seen and believers thought this refered to Simon Peter giving rise to the legend that the remains of the apostle were to be found here. A small church was dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul which attracted large numbers of pilgrims. However in 392 St Ambrose bought the relics of Vitali and Agricola to the church. At this point the church was reconstructed and reconsecrated dedicated to the two saints who became at the same time the first patron saints of Bologna.
In the apse you can see to stone sarcophagi which contain the relics of the two martyrs. You will also see a wooden cross on the right-hand wall. According to tradition this is the cross on which St Agricola was crucified. Originally the walls were covered in frescoes but now only a small fragment can be seen on a column to the left near the apse. The floors were decorated with modest mosaics in a Romanesque style which can be seen through a glass panel.
If you go back through the Church of the holy sepulchre you can enter what is called the courtyard of Pontius Pilate. In the centre you will see a large stone basin which is called “Pilate’s bowl” which was used as a receptacle for donations.

Martirio di Sant'Agricola
The Martyrdom of St. Agricola

 

To the right in a small niche under the portico there is a small stone statue of the crowing cock of St Peter which dates from the 14th century. The monks say that the distance from the statue to the church of San Giovanni in Monte is the same as the distance of the location of the Sahandrin trial of Jesus to the hill of Golgotha in Jerulsalem.

While this may be wishful thinking it is certainly true that the church of San Giovanni in Monte also played a part in the recreation or the holy places in this Sancta Jerusalem Bononiensis. At the other side of the courtyard we find the Church of the Holy Trinity or the Martirium. Following numerous reconstructions this church now has the form of transversal nave with five sides chapels. It owes its strange form to the fact that once it was a Frankish church. the Central Chapel contains a relic of the true Cross while in the chapel on the left there is a Romanesque sculpture of St Peter holding the keys to Paradise in his hands.

 

Catino di Ponzio Pilato
Pilate’s Bowl

 

 

In the last chapel on the left there are a series of beautiful wooden sculptures depicting the adoration of the Magi. Some claim that this is the first example of a crib in Italy created in the 14th century, and that the tradition of decorating houses and churches with cribs at Christmas derives from this.

Gallo di San Pietro
Cock of St. Peter

 

 

In the last chapel on the right there is a large crown of laurel needs dedicated to the memory of Bolognese soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the Second World War. The ceiling of the Church of the holy Trinity is decorated with ancient frescoes which were removed during the restoration of other churches within the monastery complex.

The door to the right of the Church takes us into another cloister. In the centre there is a well which once was used by the monks. From here it is possible to enter the monastery Museum, part of which was an ancient church. It contains frescoes and icons that once upon a time played a part in the liturgical life of the Basilica of Santo Stefano or “seven churches”.

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