I recently found myself analysing a red wine. It was an IGT from the Romagna region, a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot grapes. I found it extremely pleasant: no excessive tannin, and a lovely aroma of marasca cherry, vanilla, and cinnamon. However I was still not completely satisfied and after a further five minutes of intense examination seeking its hidden qualities I finally found the hint of a fascinating aroma that I hadn’t been able to categorise immediately: it was that of sugared almonds. Some of my friends were rather perplexed. Was this really possible?

One of those present concentrated his attention and after a moment of meditation agreed that he too could perceive to some extent the aroma that could be described as sugar almond. However another sat in silence giving me a furtive glance, obviously unable to taste what I had detected. Another replied “…not only is it quite impossible for me to detect the aroma that you mention, but considering the violence of all the other aromas, it rather makes me wonder whether all this searching isn’t just pretentious and somewhat exaggerated”.

Usually I’m never satisfied with the first sensations on the olfactory system when analysing a wine. I usually like to take things slowly, step-by-step, so to speak. Once the wine has been poured into the glass the aroma is manifested in many different values: impact, intensity, persistence, and quality. And of these, quality is itself made up of a multitude of facets which are not always easy to identify. One needs a good training and as well as good health- wine tasting with a cold doesn’t really count! One also needs time. It is difficult to specify exactly how much but it is certain that one sniff is not enough to perceive the whole bouquet of a wine. I often pour a glass and analyse its initial impact and then, let it rest only taking it up again after some minutes have passed. I repeat this process a number of times according to the complexity of the wine.

Appreciating a wine in all its facets is a job for the sommelier, but above all it is a wonderful companion and pastime for those lovely fresh autumn days. It warms the heart and stimulates the brain and the memory. The olfactory system is an unconscious memory that is not appreciated is much as it deserves. Sniff away. Life is but a perfume and so is Wine.